My second favorite part of New Orleans (the architecture was first, the food third) was the cemetery. According to the map, there are two main cemeteries, Lafayette One and Lafayette Two, but we only made it to the first. Cemeteries, by their nature, have an aura about them that makes me feel they should only be visited under the cover of darkness, preferably on a moonless night, with a thick layer of mist rolling over the horizon and the sound of wolves howling in the distance. So it felt odd to be walking through the tall, wrought iron gates in the blazing hot afternoon sun. Add to the oddness – then there was this guy, gravedigger Shawn. He was rounding up the few visitors for what he referred to as the last tour of the day. My first thought was, “oh, awesome, I didn’t know there was a cemetery tour, the pamphlet didn’t say anything about this…” and my second thought was “hey, the pamphlet didn’t say anything about this…”
And although I try not discriminate against people who are missing most of their teeth, just because you have really dirty hands and are walking around a cemetery with a broom does not make you the gravedigger; it does not even prove you are the gardener, the tour guide, or the officially sanctioned welcome wagon. In his defense, he also had a pad of post-it notes with the Lafayette Cemetery logo stamped on them, a fanny pack that appeared to be stuffed full of leaves, and a laminate badge of indistinct design whose only claim to validity was the fact that it was laminated. None of that stopped Shawn from launching into what proved to be a lengthy, rambling, poorly-enunciated speech on why the bodies were stored above ground, how the headstones were unsealed, and what he would do if he accidentally got trapped inside a casket with a pretty lady. At this point, Mia and I had concluded that this guy was probably not a gravedigger, but just a resourceful individual with access to a Kinko’s, knowledge of the area, a flair for oration, and most likely a substance abuse problem. 
To avoid the inevitable request for tips at the end of the “tour” we wandered off on our own and I took pictures of the graves. As you can see, most of them are in a severe state of disrepair. In New Orleans, the cemeteries are built in the Latin style, with all the bodies “buried” above ground in tombs. Each tomb can hold an unlimited number of bodies; after one year and one day, the remains have deteriorated enough that the tomb can be unsealed, the bodily remains separated from any casket remains, and pushed to the back of the cell to make room for the new casket. (It was the image-alignment gremlins who saw fit to put that last paragraph next to the picture of the dumpster.) Most of the dates on the headstones were from the late 1800’s; the most recent ones we could find were one or two from the late 1990’s. Many tombs had a pile of rubble in front of the bare seal where the headstone had fallen years ago, others were crumbling from the top down. There were silk flowers in front of some of the graves, but they had all faded to a dusty gray. Stories of bodies rising with the flood waters and floating through the streets seem far more plausible once you see the condition of the cemetery. Many of the houses we saw in the Garden District had been abandoned after Katrina, but the cemetery seems to have been forgotten long before then.


Do you remember when we used to run around the cemetery in Arcata late at night? With our thermos full of warm tomo-dachi? Those are some of my favorite memories!